法国普雷勒织造坊:织守里昂的丝绸遗产风华

A silk manufacturer in Lyon since 1752, Manufacture Prelle creates luxurious fabrics in small series and works on prestigious decoration projects as well as heritage restoration projects. As an ambassador of French luxury and refinement, Prelle is proud to perpetuate the great Lyonnais tradition of silk work for a clientele in search of the exceptional.
自1752年起作为里昂的丝绸制造商,普雷勒织造坊(Manufacture Prelle)以小批量生产奢华面料,并参与著名的装饰项目及遗产修复项目。作为法国奢华与精致的代表,普雷勒(Prelle)自豪地传承着里昂伟大的丝绸工艺传统,服务于追求非凡的客户。
Artisan of silk and beauty!
丝绸与美的工匠
A family business for six generations, Manufacture Prelle -- one of Lyon's oldest furniture fabric manufacturers -- offers its ancestral know-how to architects and decorators. Since 1752, the company has been creating and producing exclusively in France. Its aim is to perpetuate the internal transmission and to continue to innovate through its know-how and creativity.
作为传承六代的家族企业,普雷勒织造坊(Manufacture Prelle)——里昂历史最悠久的家具面料制造商之一——将其祖传的技艺奉献给建筑师和装饰师。自1752年以来,该公司一直在法国独家创作和生产。其目标是实现内部技艺的传承,并通过其专业知识和创造力持续创新。
At the origin of the Manufacture Prelle, there are two families, Prelle and Verzier, both long-time Canuses. Together, they have kept alive the traditional craft of silk work in Lyon. A heritage passed on to their descendants since today the technicality and richness of the styles specific to the canuts are still preserved. Indeed, the Manufacture Prelle is not a simple publisher of fabrics, but a manufacturer. Moreover, the design office is still integrated into the manufacturer and the designers are trained internally, just like the other craftsmen of the manufacturer.
普雷勒织造坊的起源可追溯至两个家族:普雷勒(Prelle)家族和韦尔齐耶(Verzier)家族,他们都是老“卡努”(里昂丝绸工人)。他们共同守护着里昂传统的丝绸手工艺。这份遗产传承给他们的后代,直至今日,卡努特有的技术复杂性和丰富的风格依然得以保存。事实上,普雷勒不仅是面料的出版商,更是一个制造商。此外,设计工作室仍内置于制造商内部,设计师与其他工匠一样,都在内部接受培训。

“Galy & Gallien” Collection, woven in brocade with a crystal box by Cristal Benito. The use of gold threads gives us a glimpse of how the fabric was imagined at the time.
“伽利与加里安”(Galy & Gallien)系列,以织锦工艺织成,搭配克里斯托·贝尼托(Cristal Benito) 的水晶盒。金线的使用让我们得以一窥当时人们如何构想这种面料。
Lyon Silk Industry with a Two-Century Craft Heritage
双世纪工艺传承的里昂丝绸工业
The strength of the Prelle factory is to have preserved the old techniques and several generations of looms working together. From the so-called hand looms to the most modern electronic or mechanical looms, each of one of them allows Prelle to meet specific and varied demands. While the hand looms -- the only ones on which we can still weave the precious chiseled and brocaded velvets, as well as special manufacturing tests in small series -- allow us to implement techniques that are unequaled with the mechanical looms, the latter offer unlimited adaptability without sacrificing either the quality or the beauty of the fabrics.
普雷勒工厂的优势在于保留了古老的技艺和数代织机协同工作。从所谓的“手工织机”到最现代的电子或机械织机,每一种都使普雷勒能够满足特定而多样的需求。虽然只有手工织机——唯一仍能织造珍贵的雕花和织锦天鹅绒,以及进行小批量特殊制造测试的织机——能够实现机械织机无法比拟的技艺,但后者(机械织机)提供了无限的适应性,同时又不牺牲面料的质量或美感。

Even more efficient weaving looms
效率更高的织造机
To make its fabrics, Manufacture Prelle uses Dornier jacquard weaving looms, which they adapt to their needs. For example, they have developed a loom capable of weaving 162 cm wide. With a density of 300 threads per inch, allowing no less than 19,000 threads across the width, each individually ordered. A little jewel! The choice of looms is essential to guarantee quality weaving in Lyon. This means dense fabrics (a large number of threads in the warp and in the weft).
为了制造面料,普雷勒使用多尼尔提花织机,并根据自身需求进行改造。例如,他们开发了一台能织造162厘米宽的织机。其密度高达每英寸300根线,宽度上排列着不少于19,000根线,每根线都单独控制。真是一个小瑰宝!选择何种织机对于保证里昂地区高质量的织造至关重要。这意味着需要高密度的面料(经纱和纬纱中都有大量的线)。
And this is without forgetting the quality of the threads! Manufacture Prelle uses yarns milled in France, as well as in northern Italy in Piedmont, and manufactured for their needs. To do so, they use exclusively unfilled silk yarns (untreated, of better quality, and more durable), custom dyed by the last silk dyer in France with whom Manufacture Prelle works hand in hand.
当然,还有线的质量!普雷勒使用在法国以及意大利北部皮埃蒙特区纺制的纱线,这些纱线都是为其需求特别制造的。为此,他们专门使用未经加捻的丝线(未经处理,质量更好,更耐用),并由法国最后一家与他们紧密合作的丝绸染坊进行定制染色。

Clé des Songes, created by Thierry Véron Dentressangle
梦之匙,由 蒂埃里·韦龙·当特雷桑格勒创作。
Custom-made, small series, and restoration
定制、小批量和修复
The Prelle Manufacture is known in the restoration field for putting its know-how at the service of the identical reweaving of fabrics once destined for great residences and royal palaces. Thus, from 2015 to today, Prelle has woven damask and brocatelle dedicated to the Emperor and Empress Lodges, for the Garnier Opera House in Paris. These fabrics were originally woven at the time of Charles Garnier by Eugène Prelle, one of the ancestors of the House in 1874. In addition to this heritage activity, each year the Manufacture enriches its stock of fabrics with new designs in its collection. The colors, techniques, and contextures are adapted to work on various renderings, with the same attention to detail as their other activity which is special manufacturing. This can be the modification of an existing fabric in the collection (the color of the warp for example) or starting from scratch and imagining a design based on a project of a designer. This custom work is possible thanks to the talents and flexibility of the Manufacture Prelle teams.
普雷勒制造商在修复领域以将其技艺服务于曾经专为宏大宅邸和皇家宫殿制作的面料的“一模一样”的重织而闻名。例如,从2015年至今,普雷勒一直为巴黎加尼叶歌剧院的皇帝与皇后包厢织造锦缎和织锦缎。这些面料最初是在1874年加尼叶时期,由该家族的祖先之一欧仁·普雷勒(Eugène Prelle)织造的。除了这项遗产活动,制造商每年都会通过在其系列中增加新设计来丰富其面料库存。颜色、技术和织物结构都经过调整,以创造出不同的效果,其关注细节的程度与其特殊制造业务相同。这可能是对系列中现有面料的修改(例如经纱颜色),也可能是从零开始,根据设计师的项目构想一个设计。这种定制工作得以实现,得益于普雷勒团队的人才和灵活性。

Benches covered with the brocade “Domino” in the collection. Project by Jacques Garcia for the Park Chinois in London
覆盖着系列中“多米诺”(Domino)织锦的长椅。雅克·加西亚(Jacques Garcia)为伦敦中国园(Park Chinois)所做的项目。
Paris, New York, two dedicated showrooms
巴黎、纽约两处专属展厅
To discover its collections, the Manufacture Prelle presents its beautiful fabrics in two showrooms: in Paris, at 5 place des Victoires, and in New York, on 10th Street and Broadway, in the famous Manhattan district. Two exhibitions in majestic cities to welcome the company's clients and discuss their projects. For an exceptional Maison, exceptional places. Two majestic addresses where fabrics create the decor. On the walls, dazzling damasks, velvets, and brocades set the tone and make these places confidential locations in which to contemplate these marvels. As for the furniture, covered with beautiful Prelle fabrics, they offer the possibility to project oneself, to discover or rediscover the collection.
为了展示其系列,普雷勒在两个展厅展示其美丽的面料:一处在巴黎胜利广场5号,另一处在纽约第十街和百老汇交汇处,位于著名的曼哈顿区。这两个展览空间坐落在宏伟的城市中,迎接公司的客户并讨论他们的项目。对于一个非凡的工坊,非凡的地点。两个宏伟的地址,面料在此营造装饰。墙壁上,炫目的锦缎、天鹅绒和织锦定下基调,使这些地方成为能够静观这些奇妙的私密场所。至于家具,覆盖着美丽的普雷勒面料,它们提供了构想、发现或重新发现系列的可能性。

内容来源|Signatures Singulières
转载请注明来源:世界丝绸网