班加罗尔丝绸:百年革新,丝毫不减风华

Bangalore Silk is known for its simplicity, purity, and texture of Silk, which is meticulously produced in the silk farms of Bangalore, Karnataka. These farms have existed for several years and have progressed immensely with the passage of time and renovations in the textile industries.

班加罗尔丝绸简约朴素,纯净无暇,丝质光滑,闻名遐迩。该丝绸产自印度卡纳塔克邦班加罗尔的丝绸农场。这些丝绸农场已有数年历史,经过岁月沉淀与纺织行业的革新,取得了长足的发展。

 

Origin and History

起源与历史


The first silk farms were formed in the 1898 by the honorable Jamsetji Nusserwanji Tata, at a village called Basavanagudi, in the southern part of Bangalore.

1898年,受人敬重的贾姆谢特吉·努塞尔万吉·塔塔先生在班加罗尔南部的一个名为巴萨瓦纳古迪的村子创办了第一家丝绸农场。

 

During one of his visits in Japan, Tata was impressed with the systemic model of sericulture in Japan. He wanted to simulate the same model in Bangalore and his observations were that the land of Bangalore was favorable for mulberry silkworm cultivation and hence Tata entered into a cordial relationship with the Dewan of Bangalore K.Sheshadri Iyer and the Mustan of Channapatna (renowned silk trading firm) for the rearing of silkworms and production of high-quality silk. This brought in the onset of the silk revolution in Bangalore, which he eventually controlled and supervised directly during the early 20th century.

塔塔访日期间,对日本系统化的养蚕模式深为赞叹。他想在班加罗尔复刻日本的产业模式,他还发现班加罗尔的土地非常适合桑蚕的养殖。于是塔塔和班加罗尔的地方行政长官K·谢沙德里·艾耶尔与奇克巴拉普拉的穆斯坦家族(著名丝绸商行)建立了友好的合作关系,共同饲养桑蚕,生产优质丝绸。班加罗尔丝绸的改革之路就此开始,而这场革命在二十世纪初期始终由塔塔亲自掌控与督导。


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The Tata Silk Farm was then set up with Japanese professionals coming all the way from Japan to imbibe the much needed scientific knowledge and the intricacies of sericulture. Innovations such as cross breeding, early detection of diseases in silkworms, preserving the cocoons for future use, packaging of the silk thread etc. were introduced. In the initial days, cocoon seeds were being procured by Japan, but as days passed by, the Mysore government, in collaboration with Tata, found enough land for mulberry leaves plantation and producing the input from Bangalore itself rather than buying from outside. Bangalore started to become the hub of silk cultivation and the silk weaved here started gaining huge reputation from people far across the globe.

于是,塔塔丝绸农场正式成立。日本专业人士远道而来,传授了至关重要的科学养蚕知识与精细技术。一系列创新举措被引入,例如蚕种杂交、桑蚕病害早期诊断、蚕茧贮藏以及丝线成卷包装等。初期,蚕种需从日本购入,但随着时间推移,迈索尔地方政府与塔塔合作,在班加罗尔当地找到了充足的土地种植桑叶,并实现了原料的自主生产,不再依赖外部采购。班加罗尔逐渐成为丝绸养殖的中心,这里织造的丝绸也开始赢得来自世界各地的崇高声誉。

 

Style & Attire

风格与服饰

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Bangalore silk saris have been the first choice for traditional functions like weddings and other ceremonial rituals. The silk embroidery saris are in great demand as the work enhances the already rich texture of the silk. Sometimes small beads, crystals and colored stones are used while decorating these saris. They are also costlier than the traditional Sarees. Gold threads woven across the Silk Saree gives a rich look and is most sought after for weddings.

班加罗尔丝绸纱丽向来是婚礼等传统仪式与庆典场合的首选。缀有刺绣工艺的丝绸莎丽备受青睐,漂亮的刺绣为细腻的丝质纹理增添了几分层次感。这些纱丽在装饰时,有时还会缀以细小的珠子、水晶与彩石,因而价格也高于普通传统纱丽。织入金丝的莎丽贵气十足,是炙手可热的婚礼服。

 

 

Influence over the years

岁月中的演变

 

The silk saris of Bangalore have undergone a mass transformation over the years. Earlier only dark colored silk saris with gold threads woven at the pallus were in vogue. However, now lots of stylish silk saris are woven to please the younger generation and bring the sari back in fashion.

班加罗尔丝绸纱丽历经岁月,已实现了大规模的演变。早年,唯有在裙尾处织入金线的深色丝绸纱丽风靡一时。然而如今,为迎合年轻一代的审美并使纱丽重归时尚,众多款式新颖的丝绸纱丽被创作出来。

 

Double-colored silk saris, reversible saris, printed silks, printed crepe silk saris are all designed with the young women in mind. Women can carry off these saris with ease as they are not too heavy like the traditional ones. Silk saris are even used as a trendy party wear by women today.

双色丝绸莎丽、两面穿莎丽、印花丝绸莎丽、印花绉丝纱丽,这类莎丽都是为年轻女士设计的。这些纱丽不像传统款式那般厚重,女性能够轻松驾驭。时至今日,丝绸纱丽甚至已成为女性时尚的派对着装之选。

 

 

Global Influence

全球影响

 

There are lots of South Indians settled abroad, who still wear these silk saris for any family function. Silk saris attracts people from across the world for their sheer texture and design. It is also widely worn by foreigners having an Indian style wedding

众多侨居海外的南印度人,至今仍会在家族庆典中身着这些丝绸纱丽。丝绸纱丽以其极致的质地与设计吸引着世界各地的人们。在举办印度风格婚礼时,许多外国人也着此类纱丽。



内容来源|Utsaupedia

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