CAMBODIAN SILK

Vincent Drouillard

CEO

Artisan d’Angkor Co., Ltd

Ladies and Gentlemen,

With more than 400 artisans hand weaving and sewing high end silk products, Artisans Angkor is arguably regarded as a major player in the Cambodian silk industry and as such has been regularly consulted / informed with regards to policies aimed at sustaining its development.

A little bit of history about silk in Cambodia

The Silk industry started in Cambodia during the 13th century, then known as the Khmer Empire. Chinese diplomat Zhou Daguan visited the region at that time and reported the beginning of silk activities. Those developed along the Mekong and Basac rivers in the south of Phnom Penh with mulberry plants to breed silk worms. The bas-reliefs of Angkor Wat and Bayon reflect these changes as Apsaras costumes display geometrical patterns similar to the Indian Ikat technique named Patola.

From the 19th century until the 1970s, the weaving technique developed and the industry spread to the Tonle Sap, the largest lake in Southeast Asia, and to settlements such as Battambang and Siem Reap. As the skills had evolved, Cambodian Ikat, the dyeing technique to produce unique patterns, gained universal recognition in the 19th century. Around a quarter of families lived thanks to silk production at that time.

From the 1970’s, the silk industry was disrupted under the Khmer Rouge regime which almost destroyed the industry. They strictly limited colored clothing and imposed black pajamas for the population. The Vietnamese intervention in 1979 did not benefit the silk industry which slowly recovered only after the 1993’s transitional government. With more than 400 artisans hand weaving and sewing high end silk products, Artisans d’ Angkor is arguably regarded as a major player in the Cambodian silk industry and as such has been regularly consulted / informed with regards to policies aimed at sustaining its development.

Let’s discover main Khmer traditional techniques and their meaning

There are different types of traditional silk fabrics and techniques. The two major techniques are Ikat and uneven twill, a quicker method yielding single or two-color fabrics. Fabrics include Pidan used as tapestry during religious ceremonies, Hôl Lboeuk as one of the most refined, Chorebap used for weddings, and Sarong and Krama using cotton and serving multiple purposes.

·      Lboeuk (or “diamond shape”) is one of the most famous traditional Khmer patterns, particularly refined and sophisticated. It is often seen on people scarves and garments during official and religious ceremonies, weddings and so on… It is incredibly representative of traditions and cultural heritage of Cambodia.

·      Chorebap, This pattern was created to represent Jasmine flowers, which are generally considered as a symbol for good luck. Chorebap is also a highly spiritual and traditional symbol for many Cambodian people, as people devoted to Buddha use jasmine flowers as an offering to him. It was also an exclusive royal tribute in ancient Cambodia.

·      Kbal Spean River, Linga is initially the phallic symbol of the Hindu God Shiva and can be seen in several Angkor temples: either carved on the walls and floor, or standing in the room, as a majestic statue. More particularly, many of these symbols are carved on the bridge of the Kbal Spean River – situated in the Phnom Kulen national Park, a few kilometers away from Siem Reap – commonly called “the river of thousand Lingas”.

·      Romduol, Well-known because of its sweet perfume that remains all day long, Romduol is a typical Cambodian flower. It recently became the official symbol of hygiene and environmental preservation in Cambodia, according to the government’s decision.

·      The Ahlunh is often seen on older women’s dresses during religious and folk ceremonies.

And probably the most renowned: Ikat technique and Hôl Lboeuk

·      Cambodian silk craftsmen and women use the traditional Ikat method to create and design the famous Cambodian pattern which called “Hôl Lboeuk”. In order to do so, skeins of silk are set up onto a tying-in frame. Strands are tied according to the patterns that are meant to be designed on the final fabric during the weaving process. After this tying-in process, the silk is taken from the frame for dyeing.

What are the recent developments in our industry?

The silk industry represents a complex value chain from the cultivation of mulberry leaves to feed the silkworms at its start until the sale of the final products to the customers at its end.

Efforts have been made by the Royal Government of Cambodia and international donors in various stages in order to help each of its components.

One of these efforts has been the establishment of The National Silk Center located with the Silk Farm in Pouk, in Siem Reap Province. It provides training to either individuals, NGOs or companies in the fields of mulberry cultivation, silkworms breeding and silk weaving, which are three essential components of the silk value chain.

Artisans Angkor has benefited from the expertise of the National Silk Center who provided paying training courses to its weavers.

The Government and international donors have also launched several programs to encourage the cultivation of mulberry leaves and silkworms breeding, as well as funding design training programs and trade promotion. One of its latest effort was to establish centers to breed silkworm species most adequate to Cambodian soils and weather conditions. But most of these efforts did not bring the expected results so far, and most of the silk weaved in Cambodia today is imported.

Since a few years, a significant number of actors have established successful business models in weaving fabric and producing high quality silk garment products. Let’s mention a few names:

·      Soirie du Mekong: a NGO based social enterprise many established in Beantey Chmar

·      Samatoa: well known as an innovative producer of natural fiber fabric, mainly from symbolic ancient Lotus flower

·      Sentosa Silk bringing to PP market the woven Khmer silk from Takeo Province

·      Khmer Golden Silk, a prestigious silk maker producing locally its own yellow thread

·      And by far the largest, Artisans Angkor established since 25 years in Siem reap province

- Artisans Angkor is a 25 year old learning organization deeply rooted in Khmer traditions and faithful to preserving the cultural heritage of this country;

- The first and most ambitious social enterprise in Cambodia employing 1200 people, a majority of them holding shares in the Company;

- A truly local and handmade producer in 48 rural workshops applying the highest quality standards;

- A strong design organization determined to have the most inspired creativity;

- The Ambassador of Cambodian silk & crafts to the outside world offering free guided tour of our workshops and a unique experience to millions of tourists in SR;

- And most symbolic, the Privileged supplier proudly serving the Royal Palace of the Kingdom of Cambodia since so many years.

We ambition a bright future for Cambodian silk

The future growth of the silk industry will partly depend on the sustainability of each component of the value chain.

Incentives may be given to farmers so that they cultivate enough mulberry leaves to feed the silkworms. The success of the research to breed the right species of silkworm who will produce high yield silk threads and the accessibility and availability of the eggs to Cambodian breeders is also essential to ensure availability of quality Cambodian silk threads at competitive cost to the producers. As a matter of fact the sustainability of sericulture activity will require long term investment and involvement of private sector.

Last but not least, to weight on the future of the Cambodian silk industry is the capability of local producers such as Artisans Angkor to offer and promote high quality silk products with creative designs who can attract local and international clients.   

As a conclusion

The most appreciated support of International Silk Union will be instrumental to achieving commercial success while preserving the traditional skills, and ensuring livelihood to a greater number of disadvantaged rural workers in Cambodia.

And also thank to Hoi An Silk Group invites us to join this Festival.

Thank you very much!