Silk in the mind of Millennial Generation
João Berdu Garcia Junior (MSc)
Instituto Vale da Seda – Maringá – PR – Brazil
1 - INTRODUCTION
Data of International Sericultural Commission shows Brazil as the fifth raw silk producer in the world, after China, India, Uzbekistan and Thailand [1]. According to UNESCO, Brazil is the sole country, out of 10 biggest raw silk producers nowadays, that was out of the ancient Silk Route [2].
Putting Brazilian silk production into perspective, the country is the fifth world biggest producer with only 2.974 tons of green silkworm cocoon produced in the crop 2016/2017, answering for only 0,29% of world raw silk production [3] [1].
Downstream in the silk chain, thanks to China and Italy, world import value of silk blouses and silk fabric reached almost US$ 2,6 billion in 2012. In 2016 worldwide import value of silk blouses and silk fabrics were under US$1,9 billion, a decrease of 27% in four years period [4].
The Millennials, one of the largest generations in history, is about to move into its prime spending years. Born between 1980 and 2000, this generation is poised to reshape the economy and their unique experiences will change the ways of commerce, forcing companies to examine how they do business for decades to come [5].
This paper reviews some aspects related to Millennial generation behavior towards responsible consumption, sustainability and fashion, pointing out some initiatives of fashion industry on this regard. It also shows the result of qualitative exploratory survey made to check knowledge of Millennial women about silk and their interest on responsible consumption.
2 – MILLENNIALS & RESPONSIBLE CONSUMPTION According to Forbes, Millennials have come of age during a time of technological change, globalization and economic disruption. These factors have given them a distinctly different set of behaviors and experiences [6].
This new generation is savvier and more educated. They turn to their handheld devices to meet all their needs. Technology is how they get things done. They are plugged into their devices and are disrupting traditional purchasing patterns [6].
Millennials have grown up and matured with mobile technology and expect to be able to use it in every aspect of their life. They want to be able to make purchases, use social media, chat with friends, do online research and pay for products. The convenience of the mobile device is paramount to this group [6].
generation. Companies have to adapt processes and production practices to make their products sustainable and seize the opportunities this rapidly growing generation of consumers create [7].
Millennials are the most sustainability-conscious generation. Recent studies from Nielsen show that Millennials are most willing to pay more for products and services seen as sustainable or coming from socially and environmentally responsible companies. As Millennials are a rapidly growing consumer market, and an influential one at that, companies are bringing them on board and awareness about sustainability is affecting products and production in various sectors [5].
transparency, and authenticity if they’re going to engage
Millennials. The conscious fashion movement faces more complex challenges than the organic food movement, including an extreme lack of information about apparel supply chains. Unlike food, there’s no explicit connection in consumers’ minds about clothing and health, or even the people behind the clothes, which include farmers, in case of natural fibers and fiber processors [8].
In order to fulfill this gap of information, Parsons School of Design and Kering (owner of brands Gucci, Saint Laurent and Balenciaga, among others) launched on October 2016, and Environmental Profit & Loss program pilot and My EP&L App to measure and better understand the environmental impacts of fashion products. Highlighting 4 different items in the wardrobe to select – jackets, shoes, handbags and rings – My EP&L App users can choose the raw materials used (such as cashmere, silk, organic cotton, leather), where these are sourced from and then manufactured. In each category the environmental impacts from carbon emissions, water use, pollution, waste production and land use changes are then analyzed to calculate a product’s final impact, expressed in Euro [9].
A sign that Millennials are pushing fashion giants to rethink their business can be seen on the fact that Louis Vuitton, that began selling online in France in 2005, has expanded e-commerce to 11 countries, after the Chinese Louis Vuitton site went live on July, 2017 [10].
5 – SURVEY ON SILK AND CARBON FOOTPRINT
A qualitative survey was made among 30 Millennium women in Brazil (4), France (4), Germany (4), Italy (4), Portugal (4), Spain (2) and USA (8). During months of July and August 2017 volunteers have got, thru personal interview, the answers to two simple questions from Millennial women with college education, medium/high income and non-related to silk industry.
Questions were:
1) What does silkworm eat?
A) I do not know.
B) Only leaves of several types of trees.
C) Leaves and fruits of several types of trees.
D) Only leaves of a single type of tree.
E) Leaves and fruits of a single type of tree.
2) What`s your interest in reducing carbon footprint of your consumption?
A) None. I don’t know what carbon footprint is.
B) Low. Rarely, between two articles, I choose the one that brings carbon footprint information.
C) Medium. Sometimes, between two articles, I choose the one that brings carbon footprint information.
D) High. Often, between two articles, I choose the one that brings carbon footprint information.
Out of the 30 women on the survey, 13 (43%) were aware that silkworm eats only leaves of one kind of tree. As for the second question, only 4 women (13%) were not aware of what carbon footprint is and 26 of them (87%) have, at least, some interest on reducing carbon footprint of their consumption.
6 – DISCUSSION
6 – DISCUSSION
Consuming habits of Millennial generation is leading companies of all sectors to search for approaches related to sustainability and responsible consumption in order to identify themselves with values that are highly considered by Millennials.
Silk has a positive correlation with carbon footprint mitigation. One ton of silk garment generates around 25 tons of carbon footprint during its life time. On the other hand, the mulberry fields necessary to produce the same ton of silk fiber mitigate over 700 tons of carbon [11]. Sustainability of sericulture, where mulberry trees must be cultivated pesticide free, is the dream of organic cultivation supporters. But it seems Millennials aren`t aware of it.
between 1995 and 2000 [12] and it is remarkable its popularity among Millennials. One explanation of why Millennials are so familiar with such modern concept is that they are more educated and have grown up during a time of technological change and globalization. Industries of all kinds, including fashion industry, are promoting sustainability awareness in order to highlight their actions toward it, creating bonds with Millennials.
A quantitative study is necessary to validate or refute the perception aroused by this qualitative survey and guide silk industry on proper way to put silk on Millennials mind, hands and heart.
Acknowledgments
My sincere thanks to volunteers whose contribution made possible this article: Beatriz Gardin Berdu, Celia Heron, Josiany Oenning, Myriam Heron, Rosella Bellagamba and Sylvia Rodrigues da Silveira.
References
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[2] Silk Road – Dialogue, diversity and development - UNESCO - 2017. Available at: http://en.unesco.org/silkroad/countries-alongside-silk-road-routes (Accessed on 23 August 2017).
[3] SEAB-PR (2017) Secretaria da Agricultura e do Abastecimento do Paraná – Sericicultura no Estado do Paraná – Safra 2016/2017- Dados Preliminares - Curitiba: Deral, 2017.
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[8] Forbes - 3 Ways The Conscious Fashion Movement Is Raising Its Game With Millennials – Mar 1, 2016 - Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/ashoka/2016/03/01/3-ways-the-conscious-fashion-movement-is-raising-its-game-with-millennials/#59f513756677 (Accessed on 27 August 2017).
[9] Kering - Kering and Parsons School of Design Collaborate on measuring environmental impact of designs
– Oct 27, 2016 – Available at: http://www.kering.com/en/press-releases/kering_and_parsons_school_of_design_collaborat e_on_measuring_environmental_impact_of (Accessed on 29 August 2017).
[10] Bloomberg - Louis Vuitton Opens China E-Commerce Store – Jul 21, 2017 – Available at: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2017-07-21/louis-vuitton-starts-e-commerce-site-in-china-as-sales-rebound (Accessed on 29 August 2017)
[11] GIACOMIN A.M. et alli. Silk industry and Carbon Footprint mitigation. In.: 17th AUTEX WORLD TEXTILE CONFERENCE. Corfu, Greece, 2017.
[12] Dictionary.com. Dictionary.com Unabridged. Random House, Inc. http://www.dictionary.com/browse/carbon-footprint (accessed: August 26, 2017).
