Speeches

Giuseppe Bianchi | Report of ISU Technology Innovation Professional Committee

Time:2021-07-09 Source:ISU Secretariat

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Giuseppe Bianchi

Director of ISU Technical Innovation Professional Committee

President of Seteria Bianchi

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Ladies and Gentleman, 

Good morning to you all.

My name is Giuseppe Bianchi, I am the President of Seteria Bianchi, a weaving mill which is seated on the outskirts of Como. I am taking the floor as Director of the Technical Innovation Professional Committee. My speech is complementary to the statement of Stefano Vitali, my colleague, who spoke before me. 

The effects of the pandemic situation on the Italian silk textile chain have been dramatic. In March 2020 our factories closed, we have started again to work in May, but activity has never returned to pre-covid level. Last year our exports collapsed 29% in value, and for us foreign trade is very important. UK, USA, Spain, Middle East recorded losses around 40%. China and Japan decreased about 18-20%. Italian consumption of silk yarns in weaving decreased 40%. 

The production of Italian silk fabrics, comprising Italian finishing of foreign loomstate or boiled off, collapsed 37%. The beginning of this year is not satisfactory at all. Vaccination campaign is under way and we expect the situation to become a little more normal with the incoming Summer. 

In such a dramatic situation what can we do for silk activity and for the people involved in silk? Two years ago we came to Hangzhou and we described some very detailed and concrete projects we were promoting in Como, for the sake of silk users, in normal times. Today we are in front of epochal changes and I point out some big  topics we will have to deal with, worldwide to ensure a future for silk. 

Sustainability is the first point. We have been speaking a lot about it for years, in our statements during the meetings of International Silk Union. It is the reason that called us today. It is a matter where silk can compete successfully. It must be the main concern of our investments and our strategies for the forthcoming year. In Italy a great stress is now posed on the question of circular economy and the reuse of yarns and fabric waste, as well as of garments after use. I think the same happens all over the world, and silk must face this challenge. 

Innovation may provide surprising achievements and we really enjoyed some remarkable progresses you made in China, just as an example, in double side ink jet printing and in artificial cocoon breeding. For instance, in my opinion, consumers are increasingly looking for garments that are easy to wear and easy to maintain, even if they are aimed to luxury market. The do not want to spend too much time to hand wash, carefully iron, etc. their clothes. Possibly silk is looked at as too delicate and this makes it less attractive than other fibers. This is just one point and I believe many other can be taken in consideration if we think carefully about this matter. 

We cannot forget quality, at all. We sell our fabrics to the most famous brand names in the world and they expect the best quality for the most luxurious items. Electronic testing of raw silk has been a great progress, but quality is a challenge that we must always be able to win. 

Stability in the level of silk quotations is another matter. Garment makers pretend to receive stable prices from their suppliers, at least for the length of one single season. Turbolence in prices damages the confidence of the textile chain  and the attitude towards silk. 

Today several countries are represented in this meeting. It is important to meet, to speak, to listen to points of view that maybe are very different, but this is the importance of this international organization. China was the birthplace of silk and even today it is by far the dominant country in the world. We Italians may give suggestions, on the basis of our experience. But China is the leading country for silk and it is up mainly to Chinese players to promote concrete steps which may help silk to shine as the queen of fibers even in the future. 

I thank you for your attention.