Speech of Bisa Overseas on ISU Meeting

Speech of Bisa Overseas

Joao Berdu

（2015-10-23）

Dear Silk friends,

It is a great pleasure to return to Hangzhou to take part of an initiative that aims to promote the healthy development of the international silk industry and silk culture thru education, scientific research, design, production, standards and testing, trade and consumption, among other aspects.

My compliments to the organizers. It is a pleasure to contribute with this initiative and  will start my contribution with an updated view of Brazilian raw silk production.

Cocoons are produced in Brazil from September to May (spring to autumn). More than 85% of Brazilian cocoon production in made in the Province of Parana, in the South of Brazil. Another 9% is produced in Sao Paulo and about 4 % in other provinces.

On crop 2013/2014 the Province of Paraná counted with 1.902 seri-farmers that were responsible for production of 2.217 tons, with a mulberry planted area of 3.974 hectares. The average price paid to farmer in 2014 was US$6,74/kg.

About 95% of Brazilian silk is exported as raw silk of silk yarn. On 2014 the main consumers were: France with 46%, Japan with 30%, Vietnam with 13% and Italy with 7,5%.

Total exports were about 377 tons, only.

In order to increase Brazilian consumption of Brazilian raw silk, since 2009 we are developing in the province of Paraná. The project Silk Valley (Vale da Seda). This region of the Pirapó river basin holds 29 cities and is the region that accounts for the biggest cocoon production in the Western Word.

We have in the province 18 college graduation courses of fashion designing and on the Silk Valley we have more that one thousand apparel companies that so far consume no silk fabric. 

Those in the audience that attended ISA congress in Lyon in 1999 may remember the chart presented by French Institute of Fashion. The IFM (Institut Français de la Mode) presented the results of a survey made in Europe and Americas about the image of silk in the mind of consumers.

According to this survey, by far the biggest consumption of silk was in quarter of Exclusivity, linked with image of luxury, power and prestige.

A significant increase of the importance of quarter Cultural on silk consumption has been pointed out by the survey. 

At that time the identification of silk with its distant origin was shown as something high consuming power customers have associated with silk. Linking of silk with personal cultural values of these consumers would represent a relevant market niche after 2005. History proved IFM was right. 

In Brazil, Vale da Seda concept has being developed under the premise that high income people have more and more concerns with sustainability, ethics and origin.  

All over the world fashion is facing sustainability claims due to fast fashion that creates pieces that are beautiful today and will be ugly and disposable in a month or so.

Silk is an icon of the slow fashion. Silk is forever. 

Relevant and positive social impacts on developing  areas is also a fact on silk production that high income people are very interested in.  

Silk exclusivity isn’t marketing strategy. Silk exclusivity  is a fact of life and people all over the world knows it. Silk is what fashion wants to be. 

Vale da Seda is working with Brazilian designers to create a Brazilian silk style and the support of those interested on this matter is highly appreciated.

Thank you.